Thursday, August 20, 2015

*Flat* Rebekah's Boot Cuffs

As fate would have it, my most popular post is the first pattern I ever wrote. This was nearly three years ago, but I still get questions about my boot socks. The most popular question I get is how to knit them flat. It's not too difficult of a translation to make, but since so many people have asked about it, I am going to just make a separate post and knit some up flat. 

Rebekah's Boot Cuffs: The Seamed Version

Level: easy-peasy

Stitches used:
k - knit
p - purl
RT - knit as if to knit 2 stitches together, without slipping off the needle, then knit the stitch closest to the end of the needle once more and slide both stitches off the needle

Yarn: Aran, I'm using Lion Brand Wool-ease in Oxford Gray

Needles: size US 10

For sizing: if you want these to fit your legs exactly, you will need to knit a swatch to see your gauge then measure your leg circumference and do some math. Cast on the closest multiple of 3. With this being said, these have a good deal of stretch to them due to the ribbing, but every person knits differently.

CO 48 (or your closest multiple of 3, I have chicken legs, so I cast on 42)

row 1: *k2, p1*
row 2: *k1, p2*
row 3: *RT, p1*
row 4: *k1, p2*

Repeat these rows until your cuffs measure the desired length. Seam them up and wear them out with your favorite boots.

I'm particularly partial to wearing them with my combat boots. I think they add a sort of feminine touch to a more tomboyish shoe, and as I'm pretty girly, I will find and use any way to girl things up (give me floral or give me death).

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Thursday, July 23, 2015

No Cable Braid Hat

Just another hat pattern. Enjoy.

You'll need:
yarn - super bulky weight (I used lion brand wool-ease thick and quick in fisherman)

needles - size US 13 straight and size US 15 circular
a tapestry needle for weaving in ends

LT - left twist
RT - right twist
video tutorial on these stitches here

CO 9 stitches on US 13

row 1: sl1, k1, p1, k3, p1, k2
row 2: p2, k1, p3, k1, p2

row 3: sl1, k1, p1, LT, k1, p1, k2
row 4: p2, k1, p3, k1, p2
row 5: sl1, k1, p1, k1, RT, p1, k2
row 6: p2, k1, p3, k1, p2

repeat rows 3-6 until the piece measures the width of your head minus 2" (my head is 22" around so I knit until the piece measured 20")

seam the top and bottom pieces together in the manner of your choosing

Body of Hat
Along the side that you were slipping the first stitch should be bumps/loops that can be easily picked up on a needle. Pick up as many of these as you can with US 15 circular needles and begin knitting in the round.

Knit in stockinette stitch until the hat measure 6" from the edge of the braid brim. 

Depending on how many stitches you picked up, use the first row to decrease the number of stitches evenly across to a multiple of 10. Then

row 1: knit
row 2: *k8, k2tog*
row 3: knit
row 4: *K7, k2tog*
row 5: knit
row 6: *k6, k2tog*
row 7: knit
row 8: *k5, k2tog*
row 9: knit
row 10: *k4, k2tog*
row 11: *k3, k2tog*
row 12: *k2tog*

Break yarn, pull through loops, and tie off. Weave in loose ends and top with an obnoxious pom-pom (or don't, I don't know your life). 

Here's a closer look at the braid edge

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Thursday, July 9, 2015

Purl Waves

Just another hat pattern. No real intro to go with this one.

You'll need:
yarn - bulky weight (I used Lion Brand Tweed Stripes in Woodlands)
needles - size US 8 circular
A tapestry needle for weaving in ends
A place marker

CDD (center double decrease) - worked over 3 stitches; slip 2 stitches together knit-wise, knit the third stitch, pass the 2 slipped stitches over together

kfbf (knit front back front) - a double increase; knit into the stitch normally, but don't slip it off the needle, knit into the back loop, then knit again into the front loop, slipping the stitch off the needle

CO 80 stitches, place marker
Knit in 2x2 ribbing until the brim is to the desired length.

row 1: *k4, m1* (100 st.)
row 2: knit

Begin pattern
row 1: *CDD, k3, kfbf, k3*
row 2: knit to marker, remove marker, sl 1 stitch from right needle to left needle, place marker (this shifts the beginning of the round by 1 stitch)
row 3: purl

repeat these rows until the hat measures 7" from beginning

Begin decreasing
row 1: *CDD, k7* (80)
row 2: knit to marker, remove marker, sl 1 stitch from right needle to left needle, place marker (shifts the beginning of the round by 1 stitch)
row 3: purl
row 4: *CDD, k5* (60)
row 5: repeat row 2
row 6: repeat row 3
row 7: *CDD, k3* (40)
row 8: repeat row 2
row 9: repeat row 3
row 10: *CDD, k1* (20)
row 11: knit

Break yarn and pull through all stitches. Tie off and weave in all ends. 

 Modeled here for you all by bae. <3

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Thursday, July 2, 2015

My First Adventure in Dyeing Yarn

Why yes that is about 25 packets of kool-aid. In the past year, I have become obsessed with the idea of creating my own yarn colors. I combed the internet for different methods of dyeing. I stalked etsy for any idea of how these gorgeous color combinations had been reached. And finally, after some research, I decided it was time I give it a try.

From left to right: method 1, method 2, method 3, method 3

I am going to give a quick review of my thoughts on each method along with what colors I used and a swatch of how it looked all knit up.

Method 1, as found here

This method was for a nice ombre yarn. I really liked the idea of a red/purple/blue ombre, and so I grabbed 5 packets of blue raspberry lemonade and 5 packets of black cherry, hoping the two would meet in the middle and make purple.

I wound my yarn into a ball, got it wet, tossed that sucker in my pot with the blue, and started heating up the water. When the water became clear, I unrolled my ball, wound it the other way, and tossed it in a clean pot with the red and followed instructions.

I was worried that this would felt my yarn, which was 100% wool (dyeing with kool-aid only works on animal fibers) but it came out fine.

What didn't come out fine were the colors.

Don't get me wrong, I love the way this yarn turned out once it was knit up, but there wasn't any purple. My red and blue did not meet each other and resulted in a very patriotic looking bit of yarn. The ombre was interesting, though not as gradual as I had hoped. There were definitely some sudden, harsh lines of color. I would say it was a happy accident, though. Picture on the left shows the yarn, pattern is from a previous blog posting.

Method 2, as found here

With this, I used 5 packets of grape kool-aid. Again, I was worried that the boiling water used in this method would result in my yarn being felted, but I was once again pleasantly surprised. This method was definitely the messiest, however, as when I poured the water into the dish, it splashed everywhere, and I was covered from head to toe in tiny splatterings of kool-aid.                                                                             I love the way this turned out, however. Because of the way the yarn sucked up some of the dye but not all of it, I ended up with some really pretty lavenders and periwinkle along with the darker purple. A downside to this is the grape has a really strong scent. I rinsed this for much longer than the other colors, but it still smells while the others the scents washed out pretty well.

Method 3, as found here

This by far was my favorite method. I loved the colors I used. I loved how easy (and non-messy) it was. There was no splattering, and I didn't have to sit by my pot of water to make sure it didn't boil.

I used 5 packets of watermelon and 5 packets of peach mango. The two mixed in the middle and created the most gorgeous orange/pink/peach color, and I'm completely in love with the way it turned out.

All being said, I'm excited to try out some different methods in the future. I'm most excited to experiment with natural dyes made from plants, though I might also venture into the realm of more professional dyes. 

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Thursday, June 25, 2015

Accidental Stars and Stripes Hat

I don't knit over the summer nearly as much as I do in the winter (for obvious reasons). But I did take advantage of the warm weather to practice some messy dyeing techniques using kool-aid. As it would happen with trying something new for the first time, I made a bit of a mistake and ended up with yarn in a color scheme I had not intended. I was going for a red/purple/blue ombre effect, but my red and blue didn't end up touching each other and resulted in a red, white, and blue bunch of yarn. 

I put aside the yarn for a while, but with the 4th of July coming up, I decided I might as well whip up a starry tutorial to match my accidental patriotic yarn.

You'll need:

Yarn - worsted weight (you'll want either a self-striping yarn or yarn in multiple colors that you can then create your own stripes with)
Needles - circular US size 8
A tapestry needle to weave in ends

CO 80 stitches
Work 2x2 ribbing until the band of the hat is to your desired length

Row 1: *k8, m1* (90 stitches)
Row 2: knit
Row 3: *k9, yo, k9* (95 stitches)
Row 4: knit

Row 1: *k2tog,k7, yo, k1, yo, k7, ssk* 
Row 2: knit
Repeat these rows until the hat is to the desired length (6-7" depending on the level of slouchiness you prefer in a hat)

Row 1: *k2tog, k15, k2tog* (85 stitches)
Row 2: knit
Row 3: *k2tog, k13, k2tog* (75 stitches)
Row 4: knit
Row 5: *k2tog, k11, k2tog* (65 stitches)
Row 6: knit
...and you get the idea. Continue decreasing in this manner until you can no longer knit comfortably using your circular needle. Feel free to switch to double points and continue decreasing however you feel, but I hate switching to double points, so I just break yarn and pull through the stitches at this point.

Weave in the ends, block on a plate, and boom! You've got a lovely starry hat!

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